L ockdown seems a distant memory (or a looming threat, depending upon how you look at it). But one thing remains: that newfound length, borne of a barberless few months and something you quite happened to like, actually. As we ventured out into this grave new world, the amount of men with long hairstyles had seemingly quadrupled in number, short back and sides no longer the standard issue. What's more, there are plenty of reasons to keep this Momoa head of waves.

Because, most importantly, you've done the hard bit. Men with long hairstyles have proven that they've got the genetic luck to grow such hair in the first place, but also that they've got the dedication and patience to stick to a stringent maintenance plan. Having long hair is no cake walk. Once those hurdles are cleared, though, there are so many benefits to growing your current style out. Longer hair is versatile. It also packs that unique strain of loucheness no other cut can offer. An effortless sweepback, no matter how just-out-of-bed it may appear, will always look like it's had a little bit of effort involved. Long hair is the ultimate in laidback. You're a cool guy. You let nature take its course. And no, we won't immediately assume you live in Newquay.

Joe Mills, founder of barber Joe and Co in London, says there’s never been a better time to consider a longer hairstyle – especially given the new tier-based lockdown system imposed by the government. In just 48 hours, all barbers could be closed for the foreseeable. Makes sense then to get ahead.

“It’s really diverse at the moment with longer hair,” says Mills. “You’ve got guys with hair flowing down past their shoulders through to guys with Seventies Bowie-style cuts with short fringes.” Like any trend, “hairstyles are circular”, and the current maxim is a pushback to military-grade war-hero cuts that appear on everything from the runways of Milan to Sheesh bar and grill in Chigwell. That means its time for a change. “People first started moving towards a softer, Stone Roses-style look, and it went from there,” says Mills. “You always have a phase where everyone’s having sharp, short haircuts, then people buck the trend and it starts to filter through.”

If you want to join them, there's no time like the present. Here's everything you need to know about the best long hairstyles for men.

“The thing with long hair is that it’s an attitude as much as it is a look,” says Maxwell Oakley, barber at Ruffians Shoreditch. “If you’ve got the confidence to break out of the pack, then you’re halfway there.” That being said, all the chutzpah of a Met Gala Jared Leto won’t help if you’re without the right starter ingredients.

“Realistically you need medium to thick hair to grow it long,” says Mills. “It’s better if it’s got a slight wave in it too, so that it doesn’t just hang. Straighter hair is OK, curly hair can work really well as the locks drop out when hair grows. But, if your hair is too fine then it’ll just look wispy.”

As well as hair type, you’ll also need to take your face shape into consideration. “An oval or square jaw will pretty much work with most haircuts. If you’ve got a particularly round face, you have to be mindful your hair doesn't accentuate that. Anything mid-length can tend to look a bit Lego-head.”

Can I make my hair grow faster?

Growing your hair out is a serious commitment: you can’t ghost out when the going gets tough. There will be tricky patches, and times when you want to just give up and shave your hair off. Try to persevere.

“Understand that there are a lot of stops on the journey, and some will seem to last longer than others,” says Oakley. He recommends talking to your barber about your long-term goals (and showing them references), so that they can give you a roadmap of how to get there.

In terms of shortcuts, there are, unfortunately, none. As far as miracle products such as caffeine shampoo go, "there's just not enough science," Mills says. “If you want decent hair, skin and nails, just make sure you're eating a balanced diet and if you're out drinking, make sure you rehydrate.” He adds that zinc and collagen are said to be beneficial for hair quality, so multivitamins and supplements could be an option. But really, this is a waiting game.

How do you maintain long hair?

As your hair moves south, it’s important to invest in a quality shampoo and conditioner to keep it strong and glossy. This means separate bottles (no two-in-ones) and not just resorting to your significant other’s wash of choice. Mills recommends using Triumph & Disaster, or Kevin Murphy’s Hydrate.Me range, both of which are sulphate and paraben-free and contain hydrating oils and extracts.

"If your hair is in fairly decent nick, you only need to condition your hair every other wash,” he says. “If you've got finer hair, you can also use a sea salt spray which coats the hair, making it look thicker.”

While shearing off dead ends is important for maintaining a glossy mane, getting a trim doesn’t make your hair grow any faster, contrary to popular belief.

“People say you need to come in every four to six weeks to get the dead ends cut off, but you’re cutting off what you’ve just grown,” says Mills. “If your hair is really thick and getting out of control, you might want to have it reshaped, but it’s not like the short back and sides mentality: you don’t need to come in every few weeks.”
​
The other major psychological shift, Mills says, “is getting your head around the fact that you won’t look quite as clean-cut as you once did.” This doesn’t mean resigning yourself to looking scruffy, rather that additional effort is required.

“It helps if you’re clean around the edges – the back of your neck and your sideburns if you have them. If you’ve got a beard, make sure it’s blended in. Aside from that, you’ve got to just put up with it.”

How to grow out Afro hair

Afro hair is more brittle than caucasian and Asian hair, meaning you’ll need to use a deep moisturising treatment more often as it grows. You’ll also need to wash it less (once a week at most) to maintain your natural oils, ideally, again, using a sulphate and paraben-free shampoo.

“One thing to remember is that afro hair is longer than it appears,” says Mark Maciver, owner of SliderCuts. “It tends to be quite curly which can disguise the true length as it's growing, so you have to be patient. If you pull a strand, you'll see how long it really is.

“It's also very important that you don't cover your hair too much by wearing caps, hats or wraps,” he adds. “Just like your body, hair needs sunlight and oxygen to keep it healthy and constantly covering it doesn't let it get this which can result in your hair not growing or becoming damaged.”

Longer Afro Style

What to ask for: Tell your barber that you're growing your hair out, and they'll advise a trim and products designed to enhance curls

Who it suits: Guys who are able to easily grow two to three inches of hair

What it is: A traditional Black hairstyle that results from natural growth and progression, and it's usually styled into a rounded shape using a comb.

Dating back to the civil rights movement of the Sixties, Aaryn Lynch, a producer behind Cambridge's Fitzwilliam Museum 2013 afro comb exhibition, named the afro "a symbol of rebellion, pride and empowerment" in an interview to the BBC.
​
Due to its voluminous nature, you'll need a little more maintenance too as breakages can frequently occur. Use a wide-toothed comb to style, avoid excessive heat from hairdryers and straighteners and swerve chemical-based relaxers and hair dyes with a full shampoo wash needed every seven to ten days.

Longer On Top

What to ask for: A classic scissor taper with square layers on top

Who it suits: Everyone

What it is: Bradley Cooper’s current ‘do would be a solid end goal in itself, but Oakley says it’s also a strong transitional option for anyone who’s starting to grow their hair out.

“The great thing about this cut is it can be adapted for pretty much any hair type,” he says. “The key feature is the taper. This can be cut with a little graduation, or if you have the length on top the angles can be made more extreme. If your hair is very thick it is better to not go too tight.”
​
Rub a little serum or hair cream (Ruffians does a very good one) through to give the hair a slight hold. If you’re looking for something slicker, use a matte clay or pomade through the length and ends.

Longer Quiff

What to ask for: Slightly feathered layers, longer on top

Who it suits: Heart-shaped faces, thick hair

What it is: With more length on the sides and slightly feathered layers, Patrick Dempsey’s soft quiff is where we start to take a real departure from clipper cuts. “His stylist has point-cut the ends to soften them,” says Oakley. “The soft feathering on means that the hair isn’t so bulky, making it much easier to style as you gain length.”

Oakley says that this style is particularly good for men with heart-shaped faces as the narrow shape around ears and slight flare at the back “gives the appearance of more balance”.
​
“Use salt spray on wet hair before drying to take the shine off. For a little more volume and hold sprinkle in some hair powder, or for a softer look with a demi shine rub some styling paste through the hair while slightly damp.”

Naped Tidiness

What to ask for: A round layer throughout

Who it suits: Square and oval faces

What it is: The point at which your hair starts falling down instead of growing out in all directions is also when your hair starts to feel purposeful and powerful. Not unlike, say, a Jedi master. This is also the point where you can go for something deceptively simple, like Adam Driver’s one-length all-over style.

As Oakley explains: “It may look like this cut is shorter at the back but this is merely an illusion. The hair mimics the lines of your head; the weight on top is actually pushing the lengths at the back to follow the head shape.”
​
If you’re aiming for even more length, Oakley recommends you ask your barber to reduce some of the weight from the top while allowing the base length to get longer and heavier. At home, smooth some styling cream into freshly washed and conditioned hair, running your fingers through it as it dries naturally.

Mid-Length Longer hair

What to ask for: Mid length layers, slightly longer on the top and shorter on the sides

Who it suits: Medium to thick hair, square and oval faces

What it is: Your reward for about a year’s hard work and perseverance – that’s how long it’ll take you to get Keanu Reeves’ grown-up surfer look. but the good news is it’s relatively low-maintenance from here on out.

“You need four to five inches of length, with the sides slightly shorter than the back,” says Mills. “If your hair is thicker then ask your stylist to take some weight out to give it some movement, and so that it doesn’t sit flat to your head.”
​
To style, use a small amount of mousse on damp hair and either blow dry or leave to dry naturally. Then, use a styling cream to finish.

The Chalamet

What to ask for: A classic layer cut blended at the sides

Who it suits: Thick wavy or curly hair

What it is: A classic Timothée Chalamet, which Mills says is the ideal starting point for guys who are just starting to embrace longer curls.

The explosion of ceramic hair straighteners around the turn of the millennium convinced us all that curls were something which needed taming. Thankfully, this is no longer the case. Mills recommends that you start by growing the top at first, keeping the back and sides at “an inch to two-and-a-half inches and blended in as much as possible in a classic layer cut.”
​
“The top is probably three times longer than the sides, with the curls pulling the length back in, but if you’re growing it out ask your barber to leave as much as possible,” he explains. “You can then grow the back and sides gradually.” To add sheen and tame any frizz, use a touch of styling cream.

Medium Curls

What to ask for: A round layer throughout

Who it suits: Medium to thick hair, square or oval face

What it is: Where you’ll be a few months in, when your curls start to elongate and fall down around your face. As Oakley points out, this cut is “pretty much identical in length and in shape to Adam Driver’s” – a round layer throughout with some of the weight removed from the top where necessary.

To get Kit Harington’s casual swept-back style, use conditioner and hair cream after washing. Leave it dry naturally, being careful not to touch it while your curls set.
​
“When it is completely dry it might look very shiny and a touch crispy,” Oakley continues. “To get rid of that Eighties DeBarge look, rub some Ruffians Matt Clay into the hands and run it through the hair.” This will break up any crunchiness while adding hold.

Longer And Messier

What to ask for: A universal layer with more length at the front

Who it suits: Medium to thick wavy hair

What it is: Easy maintenance with tonnes of texture.

Dev Patel is cold, hard proof of the magic of grooming (see: his unbelievable glow-up from awkward TV sixth-former to Oscar-nominated heartthrob). If his tousled, textured mop looks effortless, that’s because once you’ve got the required length, it mostly is.

“This is what we call a universal layer,” Mills explains. “It’s about the same length all over – four to five inches on top and three to five inches on the sides, but with more length towards the front.”

The key to this style is movement. “If you've got very thick hair you’ll want some of the weight taken out of it, making sure sure it’s soft around the edges with the back cut into.”
​
Once you’ve got the cut sorted, all you need is a touch of curl-enhancing cream before air drying. Mills recommends Kevin Murphy’s Motion Lotion, though Patel has admitted he uses facial

Short Braids

What to ask for: Box braids

Who it suits: Those with suitable scalps

What it is: A protective style that looks slick

Braids and cornrows are great for protecting afro hair during the colder months, when biting winds wick moisture out of the hair, but they’ve also made a style comeback in recent years thanks to the likes of A$AP Rocky and the late Nipsey Hussle.

Mark Maciver says: “The first thing to consider is if you have any scalp conditions, such as a tender scalp or alopecia, as a style like plaits could actually cause more damage to your hair”.

“Booking a consultation with a hairdresser will help to identify this. They’ll also be able to advise whether your hair is capable of achieving the style.” If your scalp can handle the tension, ask your stylist for simple box braids all over.

Shannon Currie, who works with Maciver at SliderCuts, says: “Your hair needs to be at least three inches long to achieve a neat plait without the use of elastic bands, and at least six inches long to achieve the A$AP Rocky style.” Wear a durag to bed and keep your scalp moisturised with a coconut or avocado oil-based product.
​
A word of warning: braids on white guys are definitely not fly. If David Beckham couldn’t pull it off, neither can you.

Jesus Waves

What to ask for: A layered cut, straight across the back

Who it suits: Wavy hair

What it is: Sleek with serious length

This is what you get when you bide your time, follow a dedicated hair maintenance regime, and maybe throw in a few prayers to the hair gods every now and then.
​
“It’s a great haircut,” says Mills. “It’s cut straight across the back and then through the front it's got some layers to give it that softer textured feel. It’s very sleek, very groomed.”

Mills adds that this is a style that works for any length of hair once it’s past the shoulders, and suits all hair types from fine to thick. To get Jared Leto’s signature Seventies folk singer look, use a pomade to define your natural waves. You can air dry, but Mills recommends going for a full blow-out when you want to seriously impress.

Long And Natural

What to ask for: One length all over

Who it suits: Thick hair with a strong wave or curl

What it is: The holy grail of long hair.

Jason Momoa’s hair is the stuff of legend: sun-kissed and shoulder-length with stronger waves than the ones that toppled Atlantis.
​
“I’ve worked with Jason and I know his hairdresser, it’s super low-maintenance,” says Mills. “This is just a classic one-length haircut, all of the hair is the same length.” It goes without saying that this is a style which requires thick hair, preferably with a strong curl. “Then, all you need to use is just a bit of conditioner, towel dry it and whack some grooming cream in there.”

When communicating with your barber on what kind of haircut you’d like, it’s important to know the meaning of the terms that can be part of that conversation.

Two common barbering terms that often get confused by the layman are “taper” and “fade.”
​
It’s easy to confuse these hairstyle descriptors because, as we’ll soon explain, all fades are tapers, but not all tapers are fades. 

To ensure you never ask for a fade, when you meant a taper, read on.

A taper haircut gradually changes your hair length, typically starting out longer at the top of the head and getting shorter as you go down to the natural hairline on the nape of the neck and sides of the head. The length of a taper can vary. You can have a really long taper (hair is longer) or a short taper (hair comes down closer to the skin).
​
Unless you’re growing your flow out or you got a buzz cut, most haircuts for dudes will involve some sort of taper.

​A fade is a taper that gradually takes the hair down to the skin, so that it looks like the hairline on the sides and back of your head “fades” away before it reaches the natural hairline. 

Basically, a fade is a really short taper. Hence, all fades are tapers, but not all tapers are fades.
​
Fades are a bit trendier and give your face and head a bit of an “edge” — both in terms of its literal lines as well as in the overall impression or vibe the hairstyle gives off.

Fades can start low, mid, or high. Low fades start fading closer to the ear, mid fades start fading just above the ear, and high fades can start fading way up high on the head. Which fade you choose will come down to personal preference and the look you’re going for.

The one downside with fades is that they do require regular maintenance to keep that faded-to-skin look fresh and sharp. 

There is No Such Thing as a “Taper Fade” So Quit Saying It

A lot of people ask their barber for a “taper fade.” When you tell your barber that, he’s probably going to ask you (if he’s a good barber), “So do you want a taper or do you want to fade down to skin?” Remember, a taper is longer; a fade fades to skin. 

Now that you know the distinction between a fade and taper, rather than confusedly putting the terms together, you can use them to convey your desires to your barber more clearly.

Back when the pandemic started heating up in the United States several months ago and local shelter-in-place orders were instituted which closed down barbershops, I decided I’d let my hair grow out for the indefinite future. Instead of seeing the shutdown as an inconvenience, I reframed it as an opportunity to achieve some sweet, sweet, 1980s Sam Elliott hair. I had tried to achieve this worthy goal before, gotten close, but abandoned the idea when it didn’t seem to be coming together. I wanted to give the idea another go round; maybe it would somehow work out better this time. 

I was optimistic about the project, but by the middle of July, I’d reached my head-mop breaking point. Just as I had concluded on my first attempt, my hair is just too thick, wavy, and vertically-oriented in its growth to pull off the 80s flow. Instead of looking like Sam Elliott in Mask, I looked like Edna Turnblad in Hairspray. What’s more, all that hair on top of my head was making me overheat during the hot and humid Oklahoma summer.

So I had my mother-in-law buzz it off (she buzzes my father-in-law’s head each week, so she’s a seasoned pro). I officially joined the pandemic buzz cut club. 

The clippings lumped together on the floor looked like the pelt of a dead varmint. My head felt a few pounds lighter and a lot cooler. I’m enjoying my buzz cut. It’s a breeze to maintain. Washing my hair takes significantly less time and there’s no need to style or even comb it.

But I plan on returning to my typical side-part hairstyle for the fall, which presents a minor issue: a buzz cut can look a little awkward — fuzzy and round — while it grows out. The last time I grew out a summer buzz cut a few years ago, I remember I looked vaguely like a Chia-Head. 

To avoid looking like a potted indoor novelty plant, I reached out to Thad Forrester, barber and co-owner of Hudson / Hawk Barber & Shop for his advice on growing out a buzz cut.

If you can visit a barber . . . keep the back and sides short, and let the hair grow out on top.

“I like the strategy of keeping the sides and back short until the top starts to get longer,” Thad told me. It helps push more visual strength into the top of your head and “prevents the Chia Pet look from happening.”

Ask your barber for a taper at the temple and neck. If you don’t mind showing some skin as the hair gets closer to the hairline on the sides and neck, you can also ask for a medium fade along the sides and back. This will give your hair some dimension, making it look more like an actual haircut and less like a uniformly round tennis ball. Continue to let the hair on top grow out, until it too is in need of a trim. 

If you’re wanting to eventually grow the sides and back of your hair out rather than keeping them trimmed close to the head with a taper or fade, start this process once the hair on top of your head is long enough to comb. 

You’ll need to visit your barber a little more often — perhaps every two weeks — to keep your style looking sharp during this grow-out period. 

If you can’t/don’t want to visit a barber . . . let your buzz grow while keeping your hairline trimmed.

If you don’t think you’ll be visiting a barbershop anytime soon, you can of course keep buzzing your head. If you don’t have a mother-in-law handy, here’s a guide on how to do it yourself.

What if you can’t visit a barbershop now, but think you will in a couple months or so, and want to start growing out your hair now? Giving yourself a taper isn’t impossible, but it’s pretty tricky. Even having someone else do it for you is iffy.

You’ll thus probably need to content yourself with letting your buzzed fuzz get puffy, but you can still keep it from looking too unruly by doing a DIY clean-up along your hairline. This means trimming your sideburns along with the two trails of hair that run down your neck. We’ve got a guide on how to take care of this job here.

How long will it take my buzz cut to grow out?

Genetics will influence how quickly your hair grows, but on average, humans grow about ½ inch of hair a month. Depending on how long your hair was pre-buzz cut, expect it to take 3 to 4 months to grow out to its original length.

There you go. How to grow out your buzz cut, and banish Mr. Chi-Chi-Chi-Chia Head to 1990s commercial breaks.

These grow out tips are from Art of Manliness

At Man For Himself, we believe it’s time for a change: no more razor parts, no more super structured styles, and no more heavy products. Whether your hair is currently long or short, it’s time to work with what you have and try something a little more low maintenance and less stylised.
​
We’ve chosen three top hairstyle trends which you need to try for this summer.

​The most extreme option to deal with your hair in the heat this summer is to shave it all off.

This is the brave option, because if you have long hair and want to get rid of it all, once the clippers get going, there’s no turning back!

A buzz cut can look great and just imagine how much cooler (in temperature) you will feel. There are different types of buzz cuts too, so if you don’t want to lose it all, just keep a small amount of length.

To achieve a classic buzz cut, also known as the Induction buzz cut, you need a pair of good quality clippers, without the guard on, and go for the same length all over. It’s that easy.

Otherwise, you can do what Nick Jonas, Justin Bieber, Drake, and Zayn Malik have done, and keep a bit more length in the top. This style is still classified as a buzz cut but are varieties of the Burr, Crew and Fade buzz cuts.
​
You won’t really need any products for this short style, just keep your scalp healthy with a good shampoo.

This summer, it’s more about the textured and tapered scissor cuts and less about the extreme skin fades.

Sure you can keep it generally shorter, especially on the sides, but we prefer the relaxed and low maintenance short to medium-length styles, just like this one.
For these styles, embarce the slightly longer hair and work with the hair’s natural movement. It needs to be loose on the top with plenty of texture with a neat and tight cut on the back and sides.

When it comes to styling, pay more attention to the prepping of the hair. For those of you with finer hair, you will need a good mousse or a primer to build that volume and effortless-looking texture. And to finish off, use a light, matte finish, clay for some definition.
​
During the summer, you can mess and play around with this length. Just keep it undone and low key.

This is a perfect option for those of you who’ve decided to enjoy your hair and let it grow.

It’s more suited for those fortunate folk who have a full and thick head of hair, but it’s also achievable for those of you who have a lot of fine hair. Unfortunately, you probably want to avoid it if you have a very obvious receding hairline.

This hairstyle needs to be left natural, weighty, loose, and pushed back off the face. It may be long, but it’s still a very mature and masculine look.
​
If you want to keep it above the shoulders, and not too long, ask your barber for some subtle layers underneath the hair, which has been done here, to help keep the shape and volume. It can be easy to lose the shape once you start to grow it.